I'd rather have roses on my table than diamonds on my neck.

~Emma Goldman

san juan island's inspired hotel & spa

ELEMENTS San Juan Island hotel & spa

Winter Dining @ Steps

Sunday, October 21st, 2007

Our room service is provided by Steps Wine Bar & Cafe, but many of our guests prefer to walk three blocks to visit the restaurant in person.  It’s a great experience, with a showcase kitchen where you can watch Chef Madden hard at work on your meal and ask questions about the extensive wine list.  Occasionally you’ll find room service unavailable as Madden and crew present themed wine-pairing dinners throughout the slower season on San Juan Island.  These dinners make for an excellent excuse to visit San Juan Island.  Like you really needed another reason to get out of town for a day or two, right?

September Whale Report

Monday, October 1st, 2007

Monthly Orca Update September 2007
Whale Report
By Jeanne Hyde, Orca Adoption Program Coordinator and Volunteer Naturalist at Lime Kiln Point State Park

The month of September began similar to August – no orcas! J, K and L pods once again left the Salish Sea waters and headed out toward the open ocean. There was lots of waiting and wondering as to when they would return. September might be described as ‘fewer whale-days but more whales.’ The whales leave the area more often in September and when we do see them, more often all three pods are together, making for some spectacular whale sightings. It doesn’t matter if you are sitting along the shore at Lime Kiln Point State Park, a bit further south at the San Juan County Land Trust, north at San Juan County Park, or if you are on a commercial whale watching vessel, “September Whales” can be truly awesome. And that is what they have been this past month.

Seeing 87 killer whales passing-by is a most amazing sight. They pass-by in groups, large and small, sometimes individuals from different pods are traveling together and other times they are in their family groupings. They are sometimes spread out several miles. Some may be close to where you are, while others may be far-off. You may get to see them breach, tail slap, spyhop, and most often you will hear yourself exclaiming, “There’s one!” “Oh look!” Or you may just be at a loss for words because it is overwhelming and words can’t describe the moment! That’s what occurred one September day when all three pods returned after what felt like a long absence.
J, K and L pods traveled in (east) through the Strait of Juan de Fuca to the south end of San Juan Island. They began to make their way north, ever so slowly. You see, they were having a ‘party’ (called socializing) and they really weren’t interested in traveling. They seemed to be ‘happy whales’ with lots of breaching, spyhopping, rolling around on one another, tail lobbing, mating, and the kids looked like they were having great fun too! During the ‘party’ the whales moved less than four miles the entire day! That night all three pods went north, but it seems no one knew, because there were no reports of hearing vocalizations over the hydrophones. They may have traveled silently through the range of the hydrophones during the night, or they may have passed-by far enough from shore that the hydrophones did not pick up their calls. However, the next day all three pods were found many miles north, past the Canadian Gulf Islands. They spent the day foraging and the next morning they were gone again! They were spotted heading west out the Strait of Juan de Fuca, toward the open ocean. Did they ‘sneak’ past the hydrophones on the west side of the island again or did they go south down Rosario Strait, across the southern end of Lopez Island and west out the Strait of Juan de Fuca? We may never know for sure which way they went, we only know where they were sighted that next day.

A few days later J Pod returned with Grace’s (L-2) subgroup. It seems that Ruffles (J-1) and Grace ‘took a liking’ to each other as they were seen spending lots of time together! Gaia (L-78) was seen traveling with Granny (J-2). Gaia is just 18 yrs old while Granny is in her nineties. Wave Walker (L-88) was hanging out with Blackberry (J-27) and Rhapsody (J-32). Splash (L-67) and Mike (J-26) were romping around a bit and Aurora (L-101), Splash’s offspring, was seen with Cookie (J-38) and Suttles (J-40). Aurora is about five years of age, Cookie is four years old and Suttles is the youngest of the three, being just about three years old. Of course the rest of J Pod was there too, but it was the pairing-up of the L-2s with specific J Pod whales that made for great observations! The L-2s remained with J Pod for more than a week. Then, after a couple weeks together, the L-2s decided not to continue traveling with J Pod. As the rest of the pods moved north, the L-2s remained behind with the L-9s (also called the L-5s) - Tanya (L-5), Flash (L-73), Saanich (L-74) and Nyssa (L-84).

There has been a rumor that Princess Angeline (J-17) may be pregnant. Is it because recently Princess Angeline has been seen several times traveling with Slick (J-16) and her five month old calf J-42? Since Princess Angeline’s youngest, Tahlequah, is nine years old, might she be reacquainting herself with caring for a baby? Prior to this month, Princess Angeline has most often been seen with her two offspring Polaris (J-28) and Tahlequah (J-35). During September, Polaris and Tahlequah have been observed several times traveling in the vicinity but not with their mom, as mom was with Slick and calf. These types of casual observations are always good to note because it can sometimes shed light on a future occurrence, possibly providing a tool for future observations. For example: Shortly before Eclipse (J-41) was born in 2005 and shortly before J-42 was born this year, J Pod changed their travel pattern and moved only short distances each day. It appeared that no one knew why they had reduced their daily area of travel to less than ten miles, when their normal daily travel was up to ten times that. The reduced travel range continued for several days and then, a new calf would be seen! A few days after each of these calves was born J Pod went back to what was considered a more normal travel pattern for them. If Princess Angeline were to have a calf in the near future, it may be a clue that when a female is pregnant she may be seen ‘hanging out’ with other moms who have calves. The pregnancy gestation period for a killer whale is 17 months so we may never know for sure!

One morning, as heavy fog lingered over the island and all across the water’s surface, there were reports of hearing the whales blow, other reports of hearing the whales over the hydrophones (www.orcasound.net click on Lime Kiln Lighthouse) and one phone call saying that there were ‘fins’ off the lighthouse! Upon further investigation J Pod was found making their way south. (It was later learned that they had gone north in the fog and then turned around.) It was a flood-tide [tide coming in (North)] and the whales were going against the tide (South). When this occurs, often the same whale will pass-by several times! They surface three or four times, then take a deeper dive and allow the tide to carry them back! You think you identified a whale passing-by, but then that same whale appears, causing you to wonder if you really got it right!
Two days later, all three pods were together and the L Pod new mothers all passed-by close to shore with their calves.

Moonlight (L-83) and L-110 (the newest calf- first seen 8/16/07), were seen with grandmother Marina (L-47) and great grandmother Ankh (L-21). With them were Nugget (L-55) and her middle offspring Lapis (L-103) who surfaced with kelp draped over her dorsal fin. Kasatka (L-82) was traveling with her youngest sibling L-109. Little L-109 was traveling in Kasatka’s slipstream (see description). She must have been babysitting, giving mom some quality time with sister Lapis. As they continued moving north, L-109 stuck his/her head straight up out of the water - an attempted spyhop - just as the other three surfaced in unison, one behind the other. Lapis first, then Nugget and last was Kasatka. With their next surfacing Lapis had moved over to join L-109, and Kasatka had moved to the far side of both youngsters, sandwiching Lapis and L-109 between the two adults!

Cali (K-34) has been one very observable whale this month. One day he was seen with kelp draped over his fluke, the next he was surprising observers by diving about 400 yards from shore and then surfacing less than 50 yards, heading directly toward the shore! Another time, Cali demonstrated ‘the art’ of tail slapping as he slapped his fluke on the water’s surface over and over again as he traveled south with K Pod! Scoter (K-25) has appeared several times in the company of whales that one wouldn’t normally expect. For example – he and Faith (L-57) traveled north along the kelp beds surfacing just in front of the lighthouse. Another time, Scoter, along with Skagit (K-13) and Cali were seen traveling with Ophelia (L-27) and her sisters Nugget and Surprise! (L-86) and their offspring.

During part of September, researchers from Cascadia Research were on the water collecting prey samples from the whales, whenever possible. Now just imagine following behind a 14,000 lb. whale, you in a 17’ inflatable zodiac vessel, standing in the ‘bow pulpit’ with a long handled swimming pool net, trying to scoop up particles on the water’s surface, left behind after a whale dives! Items collected from the water’s surface, once analyzed, can reveal many different types of information. For example, scientists are able to tell what species of salmon the whale had ingested and sometimes which river the salmon is from. For more information and pictures about this, go to http://www.cascadiaresearch.org/robin/kwdiet.htm.

As this monthly update was being completed, J, K and most L pods surprised us by coming south along the west side of San Juan Island. Two days before some L Pod whales remained at the south end of the island while the rest of the three pods went north. Reports stated that the northerly group had traveled north of the Fraser River, and were continuing north. They were expected to return south, but not unitl later in the day. However, they surprised everyone by showing up much earlier. It was just 8:15 a.m. when off in the distance there was a disturbance on the water. It was time for the binoculars! Two whales were spotted. Were they from the group that had remained to the south or was it the rest of the Southern Resident Community that had been north near the Fraser River? The answer came quickly as Georgia (K-11) surfaced; it was the northerly group coming back! Next Raggedy (K-40), who is usually seen with her brother Cappuccino (K-21), was observed porpoising south with Deadhead (K-27)! It isn’t often that we observe Raggedy porpoising, so that was doubly exciting to see! Behind these two whales were Skagit (K-13) and Sekiu (K-22). But where was Sekiu’s offspring Tika (K-33)? That question was soon answered, as three whales approached close to shore from the north. One youngster lunged, bringing his/her head completely out of the water - it was Rainshadow (K-37). Rainshadow’s mom Sequim (K-12) surfaced next, and there was Tika in front of both of them. All three surfaced close to the shore, along the kelp beds. The flat calm water and the quiet morning with the sun behind us added to the specialness of the pass-by. But that wasn’t the end of it. Many more whales in mixed family groups traveled past for the next two hours. Nugget, Kasatka and L-109, were traveling offshore with Ankh (L-21). Ankh slowed, then turned, lunged and dove looking as though she was after a salmon. Two young whales, Pooka (L-106) and who appeared to be Moonlight’s calf (L-110), surfaced face-to-face, and remained on the surface, facing each other for several seconds. When these two surfaced again they were side-by-side. It seems that L-110 is a bit young to be playing in this manner, however with the next surfacing L-110 was back by Moonlight’s side. Mega (L-41), Matia (L-77) and Ocean Sun (L-25) were a bit farther offshore. Not far from them were Shachi (J-19) and Calypso (L-94). Seeing Calypso with Shachi caused some to wonder if Calypso might be picking up some mothering tips from Shachi because it is rare to see Calypso with whales other than her sister Matia, brother Mega and close companion Ocean Sun. Eclipse (J-41), Shachi’s offspring, was off to herself rolling and diving and we wondered just what this two-year-old was up to. There were several gulls at the surface acting as if they were getting some food scraps. Each time Eclipse was about to surface the gulls would take off! Later, reviewing the photos from the morning revealed that Eclipse had a salmon in her mouth! Just imagine a two year old child eating. Well, it’s probably the same with a two year old killer whale and a big salmon, lots of tidbits all around! Another interesting combination: Lulu (L-53) was with Princess Angeline (J-17) and Solstice (L-89). Princess Angeline and Lulu were born the same year, so they are most likely ‘old friends’. But Solstice is just fourteen. He must have been along for the ride or interested in learning something from these two females.

The majority of J Pod whales passed-by far offshore. They all appeared to be heading west out the Strait of Juan de Fuca, but before too long they turned and came back in. One of the highlights of their return was when Ruffles was seen traveling north surrounded by Dall’s porpoises that were rooster tailing all around him. It’s called ‘rooster tailing’ because the speed at which the Dall’s porpoise travels, combined with surfacing causes the water to shoot-up, looking like a rooster’s tail. Dall’s porpoise are know for bow riding, skimming along the surface at high speed just off the bow of a boat as it moves through the water. This same thing occurred this time last year with Ruffles and the Dall’s porpoises. The Dall’s porpoises seemed to be using Ruffles like a boat. Ruffles just continued moving along, not changing his direction, seeming to pay no attention to these speedy small porpoises (the fastest of the small cetaceans - up to 35 mile per hour).

What is a Slipstream?
As a whale moves, the water is pushed away from in front and along its sides. As the whale continues on, water rushes from behind to fill in the gap created by the displaced water. A calf is able to travel close to mom in the ‘free space’ created from its mother’s body. (Note: There isn’t ever actually ‘free space’ because there is always water there, it is just moving water.) As the water rushes in from behind to fill in the gap it acts similar to a wave pushing a surfboard forward. It also helps keep the calf close to its mother as they travel along. This helps the calf conserve energy and keep up with the pod.

Whale Birthdays
Fluke - 1st seen 10/04      Cookie was first seen in late 2003.

L-108 Has Received a Name
Over 3,500 votes were cast to name L-108. The six eligible names were Echo, Inoke, Cayuco, Ozzie, Neah and Coho. Coho is the winning name. Coho is the name of a species of salmon that the Southern Resident orcas like to feed on. Coho salmon are also called ‘silvers.’ Maybe the name was so popular due to the fact that salmon are a threatened species and salmon are a major food source of the Southern Resident Community orcas. We all hope that Coho will find lots salmon to feast on! Coho is now available for adoption. There must be someone you know who would just love a Gift Adoption of this young whale!

Be sure to use your Seafood Watch cards when you go shopping or to a restaurant. Just one more way to help the whales and the oceans.
Be sure to visit www.whalemuseum.org for news and information about whales. To report marine mammal strandings or sightings in San Juan County call the Marine Mammal Stranding Network - The Whale Hotline at 1-800-562-8832 (WA only).

Please let us know when you change your email or mailing address. Send an email to: oap@whalemuseum.org
As an active member you receive free admission to the Exhibit Hall and a 10% discount on store and on-line purchases from the Museum Gift Shop.

Visit www.whalemuseum.org or call 1-800-946-7227 x 30 to order.
Help raise money for the The Whale Museum and our programs just be searching the internet with Goodsearch – www.goodsearch.com – powered by Yahoo!…it doesn’t cost you a penny…but those pennies add up to help the whales!
Does your company have an Employee Giving Program? If so, you can double your support. Send in your company’s employee giving program form (from your HR Dept) with your adoption renewal and you’ll be doubling your gift to help the whales!
Until next time….

Friday Harbor’s best food secret is out of the bag…

Monday, July 16th, 2007

I got so used to the great lunches at Backdoor Kitchen that I sort of forgot to make the transition to their summer dinner schedule…until tonight.  With a friend from out of town visiting I was so glad to realize that Lee and Sasha are doing dinner nightly, including Monday.  Anyone visiting Friday Harbor, get directions to this hidden gem and try some of the wonderful international cooking.  Lee and Sasha are good at lots of dishes, and I’ve been happy with everything from Empanadas to Flat Iron Steak, but they really excel at anything with an Asian flare.  Tonight I had Grilled Sea scallops perfectly laced with sesame and ginger and soy and rice cakes that were way off the hook.  Their infused cocktails are inspired, fun and tasty and the service is friendly and genuinely happy to be working at such a great place.  One of the most fun things about Backdoor Kitchen is what a hidden treasure it really is.  Tucked amongst the stone and plants of the Green Man nursery, you really would never find this place without directions, yet they seem to thrive.  That’s testimony to how good the cooking is.  In a town where everyone seems to want a water view, the best food is found at the romantic, candle-lit tables surrounded by bamboo of a restaurant hidden between the ferry overflow parking lot and Friday Harbor Freight.  Go figure.

Simplicity in PDX

Saturday, July 7th, 2007

I visit Portland a lot.  I love the city.  I was born there, so I may have a little bias, but every year Portland seems to become a better and better city in a time when so many American cities become more and more…bland.   The city of Portland vehicles all have the town motto on them, “The city that works.”  And that’s exactly what I notice every time I visit: the street cars, the restaurants, the parks, the neighborhoods; everything seems to fit together and the city is so user friendly.

Making downtown even easier to visit is Portland’s relatively new Ace Hotel.  As a native Portlander I’m reluctant to give too many kudos to an idea that originated in Seattle, so I’ll temper my praise appropriately.  Still, Ace Hotel is similar to our project at ELEMENTS hotel & spa because it spares us both the mind-numbing familiarity of chain hotels and the pretentious over-design of so many contemporary “boutique” hotels.   There is clearly a creative mind in charge, which is something required when I tour hotels looking for inspiration, but Ace Hotel has settled on a stripped down aesthetic that is neither boring nor over-stated.  Perhaps best of all, in saving money on all the unnecessary frills most new hotels pack into their redesigns, Ace manages to save us cash along the way.  We paid $166 total (taxes and fees) for a room in the heart of Portland, on the street car line, right next to the uber-hot Pearl District, with 24 hours of downtown parking (that was an extra $20, so without the car you could save even more).  There really isn’t any luxury to be garnered at Ace.  They have flat screens, internet access and ipod compatible radios; but anymore don’t we consider those standard in urban hotels?  They do have one super fantastic coffee shop adjacent the lobby, though.  Haven’t had a cuppa that good in Portland for years.

Ace Hotel is an inspiration, and while their aesthetic is very different from ELEMENTS hotel & spa, it’s really interesting to see someone going after a similar concept of preserving what is interesting and satisfying about an old hotel format while updating the interior and atmosphere to a level that attracts those of us used to a little more design.

What’s so great about San Juan Island?

Sunday, June 24th, 2007

Living on San Juan Island, I am lucky enough to not have to make a point of tracking down our resident Orca whales.  If I was visiting, on the other hand, I’d definitely make a point of getting in a kayak, on a whale watch boat or hiking along one of the island’s many west side public access points, because witnessing such majestic creatures in the wild is certainly a peak experience.

Why do wild places and animals resonate so strongly?  I think we put so much of our own wildness aside as we make our way through the human world.  Obviously, we live in houses, drive cars, work, walk on concrete instead of soft, fecund earth.  Also, what is wild in us kind of gets in the way of paying bills, putting kids through school and sustaining what has become a “normal” human existence, and that’s just stuff we have to do…most of the time.  What if you succumbed one of your wild impulses?  What if you turned from the human road to glimpse through the trees of some forest, along some overgrown animal track?  What if you played hooky with your kids some Tuesday just to be together, off schedule, off the grid, with the phone off the hook and the t.v. unplugged?

When I take this moment I realize that “home” is not an address, a building, or a place but a feeling of recognition that I am where I am want to be, when I am want to be there.  For just that moment, everything else falls away and it feels so good.  That’s what I look for in a vacation.  It’s why I kayak and visit wild places; and it’s what thrills me so much about a chance encounter with San Juan Island’s Orcas.

Yesterday I flew down to Seattle to pick up visiting friends and we were treated to a fantastic whale show off San Juan Island’s gorgeous westside as we descended on final approach.  From about 1000 ft over the water we witnessed lots of splashing, jumping and breaching and whales seemed to fill the Strait of Juan de Fuca.  The wild held sway, even from the within the throbbing, buzzing, pulsing cockpit of my busy little Cessna.  That’s why I live on San Juan Island.